Janapar Trail Descriptions

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Map of entire Janapar Trail
This is an online, free guidebook to hiking the Janapar trail. This version describes the trail heading from south to north, but you can hike in the reverse direction just as easily. Although the trail is well marked, it is highly recommended that you take this guide with you on your hike and read each section description before hiking in the morning. We also highly recommend that you download the free ViewRanger app onto your smartphone, download all the trail sections you plan to hike, and keep your batteries charged each night so you can follow the trail on your smartphone. You can get a cheap SIM for your phone upon your arrival in Stepanakert.

Trail overview

The trail is designed to be hiked in mostly easy day hikes, with each day hike ending at a village where you can pitch a tent or find a home stay. You can also double up on sections in some cases if you are a faster hiker, or have less time. The entire Janapar is 284 kilometers in length. You can print the maps at http://www.agprint.am/ in Yerevan before setting out - though it's always better to print them in your hometown and bring them with you.

Marked Janapar Trail

This one week section of the Janapar is well marked. Originally marked in 2007, volunteers marked these sections of the trail once again in 2012 and again in 2014. Check the Facebook group "Janapar Trail" for the latest updates and to ask questions. Download the GPS tracks by right clicking on the track link and selecting "Save as". There are two versions of each track - so that you can follow them in either direction, depending on which way you go.

Unmarked Janapar Trail - Northern Karabakh

These sections of the trail may have been marked in the past, or may not. Do not count on trail markers, instead you'll need to rely on either the smartphone app or the topographic maps and a GPS with the downloaded GPS tracks! That having been said, the sections from Vaghuhas to Dadivank to Zuar are along the main roads and easy to follow without any map or GPS.

Unmarked Janapar Trail - Armenia Extension

2016 saw the scouting of large parts of northern Armenia for an extension of the Janapar Trail to Yerevan, or a point nearby. These are the tracks we're going forward with at this time and are quite usable, but they may be adjusted in the future. You'll need to rely on the smartphone app!

Speeding up the hike

Most people hike at about a pace of 5km per hour on a flat path, while difficult terrain and wet conditions can slow you down. These trail sections are usually planned in order to give you some time to enjoy the sights along the way, as well as the company of others. However, if you are interested in completing the trail sooner, you can pretty easily double up on sections a few times during your hike. For example you could hike from Stepanakert to Shushi to Karintak in one day instead of two if you push ahead, as the combined total of these two sections is still only 25km. Karmir Shuka to Azokh to Togh can likewise be doubled up, as can others, depending on your pace and how much oghi (vodka) the villagers convince you to drink the preceding night!

Marked Trail

The seven sections of the Janapar from Hadrut to Stepanakert are marked with blue or blue and gold trail markers.

Directions - When you need to ask where the trail is, always ask where the arahet (trail) is, or to be even more exact, Ur e kapuyt n'shanov arahetuh? (Where is the blue marked trail?).

Day 1: Hadrut -> Togh

Catching a ride to the main southern town of Hadrut, you can go up to Spitak Khach Vank above town to light a candle before setting out. 16km Medium

In Hadrut, you head towards the only working church (yekeghetsi), which is in a neighborhood called Yerebazaar (upper market). You'll see the blue trail markers by the church, which you can follow up into the hills. As you come immediately out of Hadrut the markers are slightly less frequent, until you reach a clearer road. On the right will be some fences with more markers. You'll pass farms on the right, and reach a bigger intersection. You go left at this intersection and start climbing. (a diversion to the right will take you to an old simple church). Some of the markers beyond this are on electrical poles. You go all the way to the top and reach a better dirt road and head right towards the highway. (Left would take you to a different trail to distant Katoravank).

Hitting the highway, go left along the highway about 50 meters and then the trail goes off to right. There is a marker on the electrical pole and on the highway divider. From there you go down. You reach the intersection for Tsakuri. Don't turn right into the village, go onto the highway downhill for a while until you reach the first left towards Taghut village. Take that turnoff. You go through Taghut village, down the hill, crossing the bridge, you enter Togh village. When you enter the village, the trail hits the main road of the village.

Togh has a local winery that produces red dry wine from the local grape variety Khndoghni (Խնդողնի). It is sold chilled at the petrol/benzine station north of the village on the highway turnoff, in 1.5 liter bottles for 1,200 dram (about $3) and is good. You can also visit the winery itself, which produces the nice Karasi wine.

Day 2: Togh -> Azokh

Walk from historic Togh Village to Gtichavank, around Mount Togh, skirt by Mets Taghlar, then on to Azokh. 18km Medium

There are two marked trails from Togh to Gtichavank (one passes Togh Mountain to the north, the other to the south). From Gtichavank there is one trail which takes to Azokh and Mets Taghlar. We recommend taking the trail starting from the north end of Togh Village which is somewhat clearer to follow, and has a nicer forest you pass through. When leaving Togh, find the small village shop (khanut). The shop has some outside seating and a small table. Across from the shop there is a large dirt road. Follow the road to the right for the northern route, or follow it to the left for the southern route.

At the north end of the village, you can head up a road towards the cemetery, where the real trail begins. Ask the villagers for the gerezmanots to find the trail-head. The trail markings begin at 46.9637866,39.5904183, and the actual trail at 46.9622349,39.5905200. When you are on the hillside above the cemetery, you follow the marked trail along the cemetery fence to the northwest and away from the village. You continue along this clearing for 5 minutes before entering the forest. In the beginning part of the trail the forest is scrubbier and denser, but it will gradually open up into grand, open forest, with towering beech trees and a light green undergrowth. There are only one or two forks on this entire section of the trail, and they are well marked. You will eventually hit the first road since leaving the village, and that is the road to Gtichavank. You turn left onto that road and head up to Gtichavank monastery, which is only 5 minutes up the road.

After spending time exploring Gtichavank Monastery, you head back down the same road you went up! Ignore the markings pointing left, as those will take you back to Togh, which you only want if you are doing the Togh loop trail.

Head down the road, past where you originally came onto the road, and the trail markers will eventually bring you to a second turn off onto the right towards the river below. You pass a ruined farm on your left and turn right just after it when you see a marker on the cliff. At this part, the "every trail" is not accurate so leave it for a while. You pass through a mulberry orchard. A little further you pass an arched old stone bridge and go right, then pass a ruined building, and go uphill briefly and make a right. After going a while, you reach another bridge to the right of the road, it's only for walkers, not for cars. You go off the road and over the bridge, going up a bit and right again. From here you descend through some cultivated lands and continue along the trail until you hit a better road dirt. You need to go right on that road downhill. The left would otherwise take you to Mets Tagher/Taghlar. Go down this stretch (which is NOT marked yet) and hit the North-South highway of Karabakh. At the highway head left/straight (you'll see what I mean) and walk about 2.5km to Azokh Village. The second turn off to the left leads you to the village itself.

Togh loop trail

A great day hike is the Togh loop trail. It will take you all the way around Togh Mountain, beginning and ending in Togh.

Head to the very south end of Togh village. As you reach the last houses, keep an eye out for the Janapar trail signs. Follow them past the last house in the village and you will soon see a turnoff to the right (around 46.9567849,39.5761733). You'll head uphill on a gentle slope the entire way up to the monastery. The first 15-20 minutes will be grassy terrain with rocks. Then you'll enter a low-growing forest that you'll be in much of the way to Gtichavank, with few opportunities to see the great layered mountain views across the valley from you through the thick forest growth.

Towards the end of this long stretch of forest, you'll come to a little spring-fountain, with a trough under it. A great spot for a break. Soon after you'll come to the first clearing where the views are finally visible. After this short clearing is another stretch of forest, followed by short stretch of forest, another short clearing and a final short stretch of forest before reaching the clearing where you see Gtichavank just above you close-by. You can explore the monastery and take a break.

To continue on the loop trail, you head back down and follow the road instead of going back on the trail you came from. Heading down the road, you after about 5 minutes you come to a turnoff to the right. (Note that if you continue down the road and miss this turnoff, you will end up following the marked trail to Mets Taghlar, instead of heading back down in Togh!!)

A few meters into the trail, the scrub clears up into a tall, beautiful beech forest. It is a very clear trail that takes you all the way back around the mountain and back to the north end of Togh village. Along the way there are only one or two places where the trail branches off, and they are well marked. You should never go very far without encountering a trail marker.

As you come out of the forest, you are already approaching Togh Village, and soon reach the village where you skirt above the cemetery and down into the houses. The trail takes a left at the dead end after the cemetery, then the first right, and ends at the next intersection. There are no markers beyond this point. From here you can just go left straight down where you hit the main road through the village in 3 or 4 minutes. Turning right you can head back through the village, with a 20 minute walk on that main village road taking you back to the original trail head.

Day 3: Azokh -> Karmir Shuka

Explore the Azokh Cave, head over the mountain through Shekher, and down through the fields to Karmir Shuka. 11km Medium

Check out the Azokh cave above the village, before heading down to the main highway. There is a small WWII memorial where the highway has about a 90 degree bend. At this memorial, you head uphill through the main road of the village, past a couple of small shops, and to the end of the village. Follow the markers as you continue to ascend, sometimes through stream beds which will be wet in the spring, until the top of the mountain.

You'll start to head down and eventually on your left you may notice a small grave/shrine where people come to light candles. There will also be some remains of animals that were sacrificed at this spot as offerings - usually the legs of chickens or lambs tied to the trees. Past this, in 5 or 10 minutes you'll come out of the forest and onto the dirt road again, where there will be some nice views of the valley below.

You'll quickly reach and pass through Shekher village and the trail takes you to a point where you hit the highway. You do not really walk along the highway at this point, you turn left at the petrol station there and head back through the field. There will be few markings, but not many. You continue pretty straight however and at the first real fork/intersection which comes pretty soon you keep right. Again go straight until the road dead ends at another road/intersection where you make a left. Continue along that dirt road until it hits the river. You can either pass a couple dozen meters before the road hits the river - where you'll find a big pipe and wire to hold which will get you across nice and dry. Or if the river level is low enough you can cross through and continue up the road a few dozen meters to the highway, where you turn left and immediately enter Karmir Shuka.

Day 4: Karmir Shuka -> Avetaranots

Walk up from Karmir Shuka to the massive 2,000 year old tree, then head down and west to Avetaranots, also known as Chanakhchi. 15km

Starting in Karmir Shuka, head along the highway to the last building in the town on your right. Make an immediate right heading up the trail after this building. Follow the trail up to the huge, 2,000 year old tree. Continue along the trail which heads past the tree and then down to the highway again. You follow the highway for about 2.5km before turning off to your left on a smaller road towards Avetaranots. This turnoff is about 200 meters before hitting the main marked entrance road in to Avetaranots.

Follow the trail markings along this road. You'll have to walk through the river once or twice. You will eventually come to a waterfall area. Enjoy the water, but don't let the leeches enjoy you. Continue along the clear road without any turnoffs, straight into Avetaranots Village.

Day 5: Avetaranots -> Karintak

From Avetaranots (Chanakhchi) you head through forested hills and fields to the beautifully sited village of Karintak. 16km Medium-Difficult

The trail markers take you through Avetaranots Village, and up to the northwest where you soon enter the forest. Follow the trail along a large clearing, then a good stretch of forest, and when you hit the next large, you don't enter it, but rather fork right. This takes you around and down to a river crossing. Unless there has been recent rains, it is very easy to cross. You head right at the opposite bank, and quickly hit a clearing where you make a hard left along the trees of a large clearing. After a few steps of forest you enter another, smaller clearing, before entering a long stretch of forest.

The trail eventually will hit a couple of bigger fields in the forest. Soon after you will hit the crest of the mountain, and find yourself at an intersectino where you will see down the opposite side of the mountain to Karintak and the massive cliff above. Turn right here and walk along the crest for about 1km before you hit a fork (46.7696099,39.7264116). From here you take the left fork, and head down the mountainside towards the village of Karintak. The road is very well defined, and you should not leave this road. At the bottom it hits the Karkar River, where you cross over an old stone bridge and head directly into Karintak.

Day 6: Karintak -> Shushi

Head down the river from Karintak village, make your way through the breathtaking Karkar Canyon, check out the surreal Zontik Waterfall, the ruins of Hunot Village, and then head up the cliff to Shushi, a fortified town with a lot to explore. 7km Medium-Difficult

Please note that the directions for this section of the trail are the reverse direction from the rest of this guide. In other words, they're written from the perspective of someone heading from Shushi to Karintak, rather than the opposite, because this popular section is usually hiked beginning from Shushi as a day hike... you can of course hike it from Karintak to Shushi if you prefer.

This hike takes you from the top of the cliffs in Shushi, down through ruins of Hunot village, along the Karkar River in the spectacular Karkar Canyon, past the Zontik ("umbrella") waterfall, and over to Karintak ("under the rock") village.

Distance: 7km Hike Time: 4 hours

This hike can be challenging, due to narrow and steep sections of trail, two narrow bridges consisting of pieces of trees laid across the river, and potentially muddy tracks after a rain. It is also a must-see section of the trail, and no doubt many hikers will find it to be their favorite. If you have a bigger pack on your back, you can leave it in Shushi, and do the hike with some water and a picnic lunch. When you get to Karintak you can have a cab bring you your gear from Shushi. Have someone wherever you stayed the night in Shushi arrange this ahead of time, so that you just call them and they have it brought to you.

Beginning in Shushi, head to the mosque (mzkit) next to the restored market (shuka). Facing the mosque, look down the road to your left. Head down this road all the way to the end. You'll come to one large somewhat unusual intersection/square after a while, but stay straight (the right-hand road) and continue down. The road will not be as straight from here, but you quickly come to the end of the road, with an old water spring on your left. From here the trail is marked. You take your right at this dead end, take your second small street on your left, and go down through some narrow cobbled streets. The street ends and you're forced to turn left. Go down this passage/overgrown road and you pretty soon reach some small cliffs with a fence and gate at their foot. Open the gate, pass through, and close the gate again. Follow the marked trail over a small stream and to the right. As you descend, you follow a rusty sheet metal fence that's mostly fallen over. Continue until this fence ends, and take an immediate left at that spot. Go through the forest until signs lead you out into the grass. People miss this last "right" turn mark, please look carefully for it! On your left will be a few old Armenian tombstones. Continue straight across the unmarked grass field as downhill as possible and you'll in no time come across stones. Look for the stones with trail markings and follow those. This section will use a "breadcrumb" trail marking method with smaller, more frequent markers to ensure you don't lose the trail.

After the trail turns right you begin to pass some of the cliff's face on your right, with a sheer drop on your left. You'll pass a cave where shepherds take breaks during the day. Continue until the first place where you can really descend downwards. Follow the trail downhill, and at the bottom you'll reach the first of the ruins of Hunot village. This old Armenian village was abandoned in Soviet times because no road could ever be built to reach it. You cross the old stone bridge, and at the end of it make a sharp right to head upriver, and you pass some more ruins. You come to a river crossing where you have to balance your way across two (not particularly thick) logs. If it has rained recently, you may have to wade along the river in a foot of water to make your way to the log crossing. Don't be embarassed to get on your hands and knees to cross this log bridge if you think that might help. Upon crossing, head left as close to the riverbank as possible to the trail around the rocks. From here you continue heading upstream for a short section until you reach the Zontik waterfall. If the water level is high from a recent rain, you may need to head directly up upon crossing, go left, and then head back down to the lower trail as soon as you can.

The unusual mossy umbrella of Zontik waterfall has a stikingly beautiful appearance. At the falls you cross the river again on another less challenging bridge, where crossing on hands and knees could be wise. Head right upon crossing, and the following long section of trail meanders between the river and the cliffs and has a couple of steep and narrow sections which can get slippery after rains. At one or two points you may pass through the riverbed a spell. Take your time and you'll eventually make your way to a farmer's field on your right. At the end of this field the trail comes out towards the river in an open area, and you'll find a nice, solid bridge on your right. Cross that and head left. The village of Karintak is not far from the bridge.

REVERSE: If you begin this hike in Karintak instead of Shushi, you should ask which way to go to "Zontik". You will be directed onto the one road that goes down river and soon you'll begin to see signs for the Janapar trail.

Day 7: Shushi -> Stepanakert

Hike down from Shushi along a back country road to the capital city of Stepanakert. 14km Medium-Difficult

The Shushi - Stepanakert trail is a 14 km hike. Rather than taking a car or walking on the main highway, this is a very beautiful hike, with a lot of forest, nice views, an old bridge, old church, and great flora and fauna.

The trail out of Shushi begins near the town square. Facing the town square with the tall hotel directly behind you, you see a statue of a man sitting on a bench. To the left of that man you see a road heading down, lined with trees. Follow those trees and you'll find the trail start marking. Following the road straight down, you see a marking to go left. You go through a little turnstile into what looks like a restaurant courtyard of some sort. Keep to your right and duck through a passage to exit one of the main old gates of Shushi's fortified walls.

Go straight out of the gate and down to the main road, and continue downhill on the main road until you see the big Shushi sign at the junction with the main Yerevan-Stepanakert highway. Look both ways before crossing the quiet highway, and cross it. You'll notice a dirt road right where you cross. Take that heading downward, following the Janapar marks. You will follow this road the entire time, until you reach Stepanakert. Staying on this dirt road is quite easy, and there are very few intersections of any sort.

The first section of trail mostly descends until you reach an old bridge crossing a river. Very shortly after that the road ends at an intersection of sorts. Take the rightmost, which is marked, and continue again virtually uninterrupted as you mostly ascend to a tiny little village of a few houses. There is a small ordinary old village church, and a harder to notice cemetery above the village. After this the road will have some descents and ascents, before eventually hitting the edge of Stepanakert. After a few houses, you go left to stay on the more heavily traveled road, and in a short block you reach the paved road. This spot is known as Gərgəjhan. From here you can continue on foot into the center of Stepanakert, or wait a few minutes for the route 19 marshutni to take you to the city center for 70 drams (at the time of writing in 2012).

Day 8: Stepanakert -> Patara

Hike from Stepanakert through the foothills and villages to reach Patara. 16km Easy

You can start this hike at the Stepan Shahumyan Statue in the central square of Stepanakert, however the markings do not begin until you reach the northern part of the city. With the statue at your back, walk down Azatamartikneri Ave until you reach Freedom Square, a large roundabout. Turn left onto Tigran Mets St. Follow the road as it bends to the left. Shortly after take a hairpin turn down and to the right onto Tumanyan St. The blue markings begin here. Follow the main road. At the top of the hill, take the right fork (you’ll see a blue bus stop sign at the fork). Continue following this main road past Khnatsakh Village to Aygestan Village. You'll see occasional markings along the road. When you reach Aygestan, go over the small bridge and turn right along the river. Go left up a steep hill, cross the road, and follow the street into the village. Turn left at the marking, heading down and out of the village. You’ll pass a large fenced in area on your left with markings on the fence posts. At the end of the fence, follow the footpath up into the hills. At this point, markings become less frequent through the fields. You’ll go through a large field on a hill. At the top of the hill continue through the field and under the large hanging wires. Eventually the path meets a small dirt road which you follow through Dahrav Village. After the village you’ll pass through some scrubby forests. When you reach the large field, turn right and walk along the perimeter. Then you’ll cross a stream (there’s a footbridge to your right). At the main road take a left and follow the road into Patara.

Day 9: Patara -> Kolatak

Hike directly into the wilderness and forested mountains the whole day. 17km Difficult

Note: This is probably the most difficult section of the Janapar Trail. At times, it is a steep hike with an ascent in elevation of 700m to Kachaghakaberd Fortress. At some points, the trail does not follow an established path and you must bushwhack through the forest. Long pants are highly recommended. While there are markings throughout, it is important that you have the GPS tracks you can follow electronically (on a smartphone or GPS) and printed maps for this section.

Patara village is nestled at the bottom of a few mountains. From the town square, which has a couple of small shops, head uphill and take your first left. Heading toward the edge of the village on what appears to be the more traveled road, you pass the small village church on your left while still in the village. Out of the village, go up the hill into the fields. Go through the field and meet the dirt road. Follow it past the Surp Prkich Church on your right. It stands out of the forest, and has simple architecture with some carvings. A little further along the trail you'll enter the forest. Follow the trail through the forest and over the creek. Shortly after the creek you’ll see a left turn marker going up the hill through the forest. Don’t follow this marker and instead continue straight along the path. Soon after, the trail markers head off the road and through the trees up a steep slope. This time, you will follow the markings. Markings may be sparse as there is evidence of logging in the area, and many trees have been cut down. As you get higher up the slope you’ll notice more undergrowth within the forest. Eventually you’ll reach a small path which you will follow through the forest and fields. Towards the top of the mountain, take a sharp right up into the open field. Follow the tree line where you’ll reconnect with a path. Follow the path through the trees and fields to the top of the mountain. Enjoy the stunning views of the surrounding mountain chains and of the Kachaghakaberd fortress.

Begin your descent at the edge of the mountain looking directly across at the fortress. Climb down the steep slope, passing to the left of the fortress rock. When you reach the far side of the rock outcropping, follow the markings down through the trees. There is no defined path until you reach the logging road. Follow the road until it takes a sharp left turn. Turn off the road, following a small path to the right. You’ll reach another road which you’ll follow through more open space. Look out for the left hairpin turn which you will take back into the forest. Continue along this road. Then, follow the trail down to the river. Cross the river. (There is no bridge, so you’ll want to take your boots off.) On the other side of the river, follow the dirt road. Turn left up the hill, cross another road, continuing up the hill to a third road. Turn right and follow the road through the field to the paved road. Turn left, and follow the road into Kolatak.

Note: If you are hiking this trail in reverse, at the very start there is no marking for the right turn off the paved road which brings you through the field when leaving Kolatak. This is the first turn out of the village.

Villagers are often available to guide you up to the fortress or all the way to Kolatak, but it can be impossible to find a guide if you do not make arrangements the evening before your hike. You can find villagers either with or without a horse, and possibly with a horse for you as well. A simple guide to lead you on the hike can cost between 5,000 dram to 10,000 dram - though it usually tends towards the higher end. If you're going all the way over to Kolatak, you may need to pay for their transport home.

Asking around in the village square (where to shops are located) will probably yield some results or you can directly contact some men willing to guide you. You should arrange a guide the night before your hike!

"Vorsord Armen", or Hunter Armen is a seasoned mountain man. He can take you up and potentially over the mountain to Kolatak. (097) 202-081. Speaks Armenian and Russian.

Melik can take you up and knows the ways well. He has at least one horse, which he'll probably share with you part of the way up. But not all! (097) 211-917.

Stepan is a young guy in Patara who speaks some English. He may be able to help you find or talk to a guide - (097) 250-314

Unmarked Trail

From Stepanakert heading north, some of the sections were marked years ago, and some were never marked. You should not rely on the trail markers at all. You should only trust your maps and GPS. Some of it is along roads that are easy to follow, but others may be better only for advanced hikers. See the notes for each section.

Day 10: Kolatak -> Gandzasar (Vank)

Hike on the road along rivers and forested mountains. See old church 2km above Kolotak. 20km Medium

Day 11: Gandzasar (Vank) -> Vaghuhas

NOTE: DO NOT HIKE this section until reading the safety notes below! ((Hike from Gandzasar Village over to Gandzasar Monastery, then through the forested mountain to Vaghuhas. 14km Medium))

We have been in touch with HALO Trust at various times of trail development and maintenance, and for this specific section we have been sent the following information and suggestions. If you read it and are not comfortable hiking this section, you can hop in a cab at Gandzasar and take it around the mountains to Vaghuhas, or skip directly to Dadivank.

"There are no records of any minefields or cluster munition sites close to the route. However, in the past our survey teams have responded to a number of callouts to destroy ammunition (including mines and cluster munitions) around both villages, Vank and Vaghuas, reported by local population. Since the area was a scene of heavy fighting in the early nineties, it’s possible that there might be more abandoned or unexploded ammunition lying around.

"Our recommendation is to try to avoid walking on any unused ground or going deeper into forested areas where fighting might have taken place. If the Janapar Trail runs through a well-used footpath or a forest track, then it should be safe, but it is still worthwhile to get some advice from the local villagers who use the area on a daily basis for collecting firewood or hunting.

"In case anyone from your team comes across any ammunition or an unknown item, it’s strongly recommended not to touch/investigate it, and report the findings to HALO as soon as possible.

__________________________________

So for those hiking the trail, and sticking to the trail, you will be going through forest nearly all of the hike, with some rise and fall as you go over the hills. There are no trail markings, so you need to depend on a reliable GPS device or smartphone to hike this section, in addition to printing out the maps from the site. Hiring a villager as a guide is also an option. It's a moderate day of hiking and there is a well defined trail.

Here are some notes from a group of hikers in 2014:

a. We slept next to the “Gandzasar Monastery”, and started walking from there, as written in the description. b. Sleeping in the monastery rooms is optional. c. In order to descend to the river, take the only trail heading north from the monastery, pass a gate, and turn right to a smaller stream where there are some ruins and a spring. There you’ll have to find your way in the forest until you reach a good trail, which is also well marked all the way until “Vaghuhas”. d. Around the tallest ridge there are some fighting remains such as helmets, bullets and empty shells.

Day 12: Vaghuhas -> Dadivank

Hike along the Tartar River to Dadivank Monastery and village. 22km Easy

Day 13: Dadivank -> Zuar

Follow the river from Dadivank Monastery into Karvachar, and up the canyon to Zuar village, where you can soak in the hotsprings nearby. You're walking on a road which is very lightly traveled. 19km Easy

Day 14: Zuar -> Karvachar

Take an early morning soak in the hotsprings north of Zuar before hiking over the rolling hills, mostly following unused and fallen Soviet electrical towers until you reach the next river valley and descend to the Tartar River, and head upriver to the tiny regional capital of Karvachar town. 28km Difficult

Day 15: Karvachar -> Tsar

Descend north into the Tartar Gorge and follow the river upstream (south). Take a soak at the geyser before continuing along the Tartar until your turnoff to Tsar village, which is a steep ascent. 20km Medium-Difficult

Day 16: Tsar -> Vardenis

Head up the mountains to the southeast corner of Lake Sevan, where the larger town of Vardenis lies. To shorten this hike you can try to catch a lift/cab from the first village you reach in Armenia named Verin Shorzha to Vardenis - or in the reverse direction it's strongly recommended to take a cab from Vardenis to Verin Shorzha to start your hike. That would bring down the total length of this section from 34km to about 24km. This is by far the most remote hike, with virtually nothing along the route. Do not hike it without a fully charged device showing the GPS tracks, and a full day of light to hike. 34km Difficult

Please note that the sections from Dadivank to Vardenis require special permission from the Karabakh Ministry of Foreign Affairs, unless you have an Armenian passport or residency. If you do not have permission, they may question you and they may have you leave this area. Pleading to be allowed to continue hiking this beautiful region couldn't hurt. Anybody can hike the sections from Dadivank all the way down to Hadrut, though you should have a Karabakh visa.