Badara
From Janapar
Badara ([[]], also known as Patara or Ptretsik) is a village located in Askeran Region.
I’ve spent ten days in Ptretsik (Badara) village. It was such a fertilized village comparing with other villages I’ve been in these months. The village has an old history, at about nine churches around and such a wild nature. Most of the men in this village are experienced hunters, and they didn’t allow me to hike through the forest because of the wild animals. But if you have to hike it, just let them to know and ask them (2 or 3 of them) to accompany you. I didn’t hike the forest, because there are no foot signs. The villagers are very happy guesting tourists in their houses.
The first home stay family is Mr. Albert’s and Mrs. Laura’s. They are such a hard worker and nice persons. They have a big house, which is close to the trail. They are rebuilding their house by AUA’s sponsoring in order to have it served as a hotel. They can take 5-6 tourists in their house. At the end of renovation, they will have indoor toilet and bathroom with shower in each room. Mrs. Laura makes delicious food and ‘’ bahadzo’’ food for winter, includes summer fruits in its juice. They have honey bees and you can buy jar of honey, which costs 3000 AMD per one liter of it.
The second family is Mrs. Elmira’s (Emma). She has two daughters and and a son. Her son, Stepan, and one of her daughters, Lousineh are living in Stepanakert and study in the University of Artsakh. They come back home at week ends. Their house is not big but they can take 3 tourists. They have two bedrooms; one of them is for tourists. They have bathroom with shower and a toilet (a little bit renovated) but it is outdoors. Mrs. Elmira works in KT from her house. Her youngest daughter is such an active girl, she climbs the tree with sandals as soon as a guy does…You can ask her to bring fruits from the top of the tree for you.
The third home stay family is Mr. Armen’s. He has nice six member family who are,his wife Mrs. Lousia, their son Nelson is married (His wife is Anahid) with three children. They have two bedrooms, one is separated for tourists and they can take 3-4 tourists in their house. They have bathroom with shower and toilet but not in the house. They are interested in learning English.
The foot signs in Ptretsik are in good condition. I’ve just changed one of the signs at the beginning of the village. At the end of the village, where the trail continues through the jungle, there is no sign and you might be lost your way.
WARNING! Don’t hike alone in the forest. Surely ask hunters of the village to accompany you when you want to pass the forest.
1-Mr. Albert Davtyan and Mrs. Laura Arustamyan Ptretsik/Badara village, Askeran region (097) 291403
2-Mrs. Elmira (Emma) Hairapetian
(0476)77312-260
3-Mr. Armen and Mrs. Lousia Khachaturian
(097) 297429
(0476)77312-274
Contents |
History
This transcribed synonymous names originate from word pater (walls), most likely connected with the fact that in the past the settlement was encircled with serf-walls. Village Ptretsik is one of the ancient settlements of Artsakh- Gharabagh with a rich and ancient history. It is situated by the left bank of the river of the same name and is surrounded with complete green zone. Moderate climate, wonderful air, cold springs, forests, rich of edible plants, meadows, fruit and especialy nut-trees… .Among all these are large monastic complexes, settlements, ancient cemeteries, hundreds of khachkars, half-destroyed and well-preserved churches, chapels, fort-citadels…. Here is a not complete list of monuments, of which are really proud Ptretsik’s inhabitants.
Monastery Okhti Yeghtsik
From village Ptretsik the road 7-8km long takes up, where on a hill among trees is situated monastery Okhti Yeghtsi (seven churches). Here remain number of buildings of the complex, six of which join each other, though have separate entries and windows, and the three others are built in their surroundings. Besides them here are also noticeable traces of other four constructions. So the complex consists of 13 cult and worldly buildings. All the buildings are one-nave halls with vaulted covers. They are built from roughly-trimmed stone. Though in architectural-artistic aspect the complex doesn’t present certain interest, but thanks to its position and harmonious accord with the surroundings nature, the monastic ensemble leaves an imposing impression. The complex stands out by unique volume-space solution, namely by interesting grouping of buildings. As is seen from the general plan the main constructions are quite well placed around the common space. By facades and windows they all look at the yard. Along them are put khachkars, which even more outlines the expressiveness of the monastery. In fact, the yard has turned into a unique gallery of khachkars under the open sky. In the monastic complex also attract attention churches with rectangular in scheme altar apsides. There are many such churches. Their analogues can be seen also in other regions of the area. Churches with rectangular altar were quite spread and accepted in Armenian cult architecture (since the early medieval epoch up to XXc). About it evidence numerous preserved churches in Artsakh, in neighboring Syunik and in other provinces of Central Armenia.
Monastery Okhti yeghtsi stands out also by its epigraphic inscriptions, khachkars with images of people and robbed in clothes riders, by two large settlements, stretching around the monastery, and by large cemeteries. The inscriptions evidence that the monastic complex with the settlements was built in XII- XIIIc. The khachkars are dated 1156, 1165, 1193, 1216 and following ages (12 epigraphic inscriptions are published). They are covered with thin delicate carving and by the art of realization belong to Khachenian khachkars. The inscription on one of the khachkars of mausoleum placed in the northern part of the complex reads: “In the summer of 607 (1158). I, Smbat, Vasak’s son put this cross in the memory of my son Davton, who transferred to Christ in his young age”.
A khachkar from white stone (sizes 1,1x0,65m) next to which in the wall are put also others, presently scattered around the church, gravestones with half-rubbed off inscriptions and relieves of religious and worldly theme.
Tsera Nahatak
From monastery Okhti yeghtsi a path takes through a forest, then turns to east and gets to the ancient settlement, called Tsera Nahatak. A small church, built on a cap-shape rising, occupies a majestic position over the surroundings. It’s a hall basilica, built from simple untrimmed stone. Because of the relief’s inconvenience the entry is placed in the central part of the southern wall. Here too, as in monastery Okhti Yeghtsi the vestry-altar has rectangular configuration. According to the inscription on portal’s tympanum the church was built in 1326. The building inscription of 8 lines tells that the temple was built during prince Smbat’s power by king Mkhitar’s order. By the way, prince Smbat’s name also comes across in khachkar-inscriptions of Okhti Yeghtsi. In the southern part of the temple are placed ruins of the vestibule-gavit. On the territory of the church and in its surroundings remain over 200 khachkars of IX-XIIIcc. The inscription on one of them evidences that the chapel built some Ovanna. The collection of khachkars of Tsera Nahatak by variety and number is inferior only to khachkars of cemeteries Jungli (Nakhijevan) and Noraduz (Lake Sevan’s basin). Unfortunately, the latter are not only not examined but also not registered.
Otskanvank
Among the monuments of Ptretsik river’s valley a special place occupies monastery Otskan. To get to it, one needs to overcome difficulties, connected with there being no road. “Travelling” by route Ptretsik- monastery Otskan by narrow path 7-8km long, especially when it takes place in autumn, gives much pleasure and gives chance to see nature in its original beauty.
Really, the choice of monastery Otskan’s place is very successful. It is situated in a forest among rare meeting tree, on top of a mossy cliff.
The monastic complex consists of a church, several destroyed constructions and an ancient cemetery. The well-preserved unharmed one-nave church with vaulted cover is a basilica. In the northern part of the praying-hall are situated two different vestries.
The church as also other cult constructions of Ptretsik is built from untrimmed stone. The entry is from west, two windows look at east, one looks at north. There are four bays in walls. The epigraphic inscriptions on trimmed stones and khachkars, put in temple’s walls are harmed and half-obliterated. Fortunately the mentioned names are familiar- Arzu Khatun and Smbat. Arzu Khatun was the wife of Vakhtang, prince of Upper Khachen, and as has already been mentioned in 1214 he built the Cathedral church of Dadivank. Prince Smbat’s name is mentioned on khachkars of monasteries Okhti Yeghtsi and Tsera Nahatak. So, fragmentary epigraphic inscriptions of khachkars of church Otskan vank tell about events of XIII- XIVcc.
Monastery Amenaprikich
In 3km towards north from village Ptretsik in a forest stretches a large settlement, mentioned in literature Surb Amenaprkich, or as pronounce local inhabitants- Prkcha vank. Here have preserved a church, large settlement with hundreds of gravestones and khachkars, covered under the luxuriant nature.
The church is a three-nave rectangular in scheme construction (sizes 11,3 x 9,7m), the vestries occupy almost half of the praying-hall. Such solution among monuments of Lernayin Gharabagh is the only one. By this its originality doesn’t end. The word is about two triangle bays in the eastern wall, which go up by its whole length. Such formation has no equals in monuments of Lernayin Gharabagh, which we have seen.
Judgin by volume-space solution, old trimmed stone, put in walls, we may conclude that the church was built in place of an ancient temple, crowned with a dome.
The layer of southern and western walls, where there are door-passages, is realized from roughly-trimmed stone, and the rest- from untrimmed stone. Pilasters and capitals are clearly trimmed. The white building of the temple among complete greenness presents a rather effective view. The building inscription of the church is so much harmed that it’s impossible to learn the construction date. Its first line is completely rubbed off, and the date, as is known, is usually mentioned in the beginning of an inscription. But the mentioned in the inscription words darpas (palace), Vachar (market), nmes Smpat Ishkhan, Atanas catholicos certainly evidence about that we deal with a large religious and administrative center. Undoubtfully, it has served as residence for prince Smbat. Probably in the second half of XIIIc, after Khachen’s prince Hasan Jalal was killed, the princely center from Khokhanaberd was transferred here. In its favor also speaks the placed not far from Tsera Nahatak Drbasut Yeghtsi (it also as Gandzasar’s temple is called Surb Hovanes Mkrtich) and inscription “Atanas, catholicos Arbain”. Catholicos Atanas is mentioned since 1279 in the list of Eastern Armenia’s catholicoses. Arbain (in Arabic) means four countries; i.e. Atanas was the catholicos of four countries. In the large and ancient cemetery of settlement Darbasut remain hundreds of richly-ornamented khachkars and gravestones, in which was incarnated limitless fantasy, delicate taste of stone-cutters, their conception of decoration. these monuments are full of the spirit and color of the time of their creation.
The princely residence Darbasut, like other medieval-period centers was surrounded with strong serf-walls and number of forts. One of them is Kachaghakaberd, another is Getieri berd, situated at the foot of mountain Karasun Kuys, and the third- Pert (fort) is placed towards south from the present village Ptretsik, on top of an impregnable hill. Traces of inside constructions of the fort have almost got lost. Here is also lost the underground passage “jrahoghi”. In some places are noticeable remainders of ancient serf-walls.
Church Surb Stepanos in the center of village Patara (destroyed) had three-nave, rectangular in scheme composition (sizes 16,75x9,35m). the pylons carrying the vault, connecting arches, casing of passages were realized with trimmed stone, and the walls and the vaults- from white roughly-trimmed stone. According to the epigraphic inscription on the portal’s tympanum the church was built in 1678 by priest Sargis under the patronship of Alaverdyan- khachen’s prince. We are not inclined to think that in the territory and in the surroundings of village Ptretsik there are no other monuments. They certainly exist, but their considerable part is essentially destroyed, covered with earth or is lost in dense growth of bushes. Thorough examination of these monuments will help to discover epigraphic inscriptions, which will open new pages of the historical past of the ancient settlements.
Homestays
Karasun Kuys Guesthouse
Albert Davtyan (♂) & Laura Arustamyan (♀)
Ptretsik/Badara village, Askeran region
097 291403
http://www.travelkarabakh.com/Karasun/main.html
This is a nice new home operating as a B&B. Very clean and comfortable. Over $20/night.
From their website: "Karasun Kuys is conveniently located 12 km from the North-South highway in the Askeran Region. Nothing gets you closer to romance, history, or our natural beauty than the ambiance of a Badara bed and breakfast inn. Experience and enjoy true Nagorno-Karabakh hospitality at our bed & breakfast. This year round family operated Inn is recognized locally for its warm and friendly atmosphere and excellent cuisine using local fresh produce including family owned orchards.
Your host and Inn keepers are Albert Davtyan and Laura Arustamyan, who specialize in farming honey bees and raising horses. They invite you to experience Badara-style warmth and charm in their beautifully renovated home, “karasun Kuys” – forty nuns.
Prepare to be pampered by caring innkeepers who have taken every detail into account to make your stay as relaxing, comfortable and enjoyable as possible. Curl up with a good book in a quiet spot, or relax and mingle with fellow guests or locals in the private living room.
Karasun Kuys offers you the opportunity to enjoy all of the amenities you will need for a relaxing experience and stay. Karasun Kuys is ready to pamper you."
Artur
In a pinch, you can stay at Artur's (♂) house, but he has made guests uncomfortable in the past, so better to try a new place. Tel: 277-909
- We wouldn't recommend staying at Artur's if you have any women in the group. He made awkward comments towards my girlfriend.
Camping
Trails
| Himnakan Janapar (Backbone Trail) |
|---|
| Nor Manashid > Dadivank > Vaghuhas > Vank > Kolatak > Ptretsik > Aygestan > Stepanakert > Mkhitarishen > Avetaranots > Karmir Shuka > Azokh > Togh > Hadrut |
